Friday, September 20, 2013

A New Favorite: Amsterdam

“How happy is the little stone
That rambles in the road alone,
And doesn't care about careers,
And exigencies never fears;
Whose coat of elemental brown
A passing universe put on;
And independent as the sun,
Associates or glows alone,
Fulfilling absolute decree
In casual simplicity.”
― Emily Dickinson



So, I like traveling alone.  Not just a little bit,  but a lot a bit.  I think it feeds two needs: 1) My need to be alone - being an introvert,  by nature I struggle being with people 2) My need to do what I want,  when I want - I'm like a two year old this way. So when I decided to go on a trip at the end of my year in the UK, going on my own was a dream come true. Where to go, and how long to travel were much harder choices to make.  I,  of course,  started with an elaborate plan that spanned four countries,  two weeks and transportation included air, rail, and water.  However,  the price tag was a little steep, so I scaled it back to two cities and nine days.

First was Amsterdam. Known for marijuana and prostitution. Neither of which interested me (shocking, I know.  I'm so boring).

Flying into a city is a unique way to approach a place for the first time.  I find that the bird's eye view gives me an amazing perspective on what makes the city, and country, special. As my plane began its final descent into Amsterdam, I gazed out the window and all I could think was 'water and windmills.' Everywhere I looked I saw them. Not traditional windmills,  though Holland is known for those,  but wind turbines rising from water such a dark green it didn't totally register that it wasn't land until I saw freight liners chugging past. As we landed it began to rain. Usually this would upset me - nothing ruins travel faster than weather - but for some reason I was happy,  it just seemed to fit.

Officially I've decided that Amsterdam is in my top five all-time favorite cities. I'm not saying it was smooth sailing,  I got lost (which almost never happens) and I was soaked to the bone by sudden rain storms several times each day. Both of which would normally make me dislike a place.  But, you know what happened when I got lost?  People stopped and asked if I needed help! What! They were so nice and polite.  Even the girl I accidentally almost cut off when I went to cross a bike lane smiled and waved when I apologized.  I shared greetings with more people on the street in three days in Amsterdam than in a month in Coventry. And speaking of bikes (I was, sort of), I've never seen the likes of them.  There were more people on bikes than cars!  I saw people talking on their mobiles,  holding up umbrellas, I think I even saw one guy eating a sandwich - all while peddling down the street.  It's amazing and disconcerting at the same time.  I had to be extra vigilant crossing anything between the cars,  bikes, and trams. Nearly got run over by all of the above at least once.

Maybe I connect with Amsterdam because of all the water.  I've always adored water,  in all its forms (summer thunderstorms are the best time to go play outside,  aren't they?) I've always thought I might be part mermaid.  Between the unending canals and the sudden showers,  I feel like this city had turned on the tap and was trying its hardest to coax me to join in on the fun, that if I just let go I'd change into that which I truly am.

Don't worry,  that's just my wild imagination getting the better of me,  I didn't sample the local goods! In all honesty,  I travel like an old person - up early and home early - who is really into art and history. This was demonstrated by the fact that the median age when I went for breakfast at the hotel was probably twice my age. Considering I came to Amsterdam for daytime activities (again, I'm an old lady, but have accepted that fact), I was okay with it.

So what did I do in Amsterdam if I wasn't interested in sex, drugs,  or rock 'n roll? Art, history, and architecture,  of course!  Well, and gardens and animals. Really,  I can honestly say,  what didn't I do? In a city with museums dedicated to art greats such a Van Gogh and Rembrandt,  and have free lunch concerts in their main concert hall, how could I go wrong?

I do, however, have a confession to make: I did not go to the Anne Frank house.  I know, I know. The girl who has studied the Holocaust more than most normal people (i.e. non-history major,  non-personal connection person) you would think that I would be excited to see the place where such an important story was enacted. It's not that I am over-saturated (considering that I've been to two concentration camps, taught the Diary of a Young Girl to my middle school class, and visited at least four museums, not to mention dozens of monuments - it is a possibility). I did go to the Dutch Resistance Museum - it was extremely interesting and informative.  I just couldn't take the line at the Anne Frank House. Yep,  that's it. The only reason I didn't go. I could have ordered a ticket online but I didn't want to commit to a specific time (don't judge) and when I walked past the museum I just couldn't bring myself to stand in a never-ending line to be shoved around to read information that covered a lot of the same things as everywhere else,  just to barely see the tiny space where Anne and her family lived.  On top of that,  the people who usually go to museums like this actually don't know most of what is on the signs because they - honestly - don't know (I actually witnessed a group - in Israel - standing under a tree and their guide was saying: "the Holocaust happened during the Second World War . . .". Yep,  that happened).  I'm happy these people are learning. But my patience can only handle crowds like that for so long,  and that was not my day. I think it all goes back to the reasons I love traveling alone.

Of all the places I did visit,  my favorite was the Rijksmuseum. In general I'm a fan of the big art museums.  How can you not be? They usually have a number of famous pieces that I have learned about for years (my mom is an Art History professor) and it's always a thrill to see these.  On top of that there are always pieces I've never heard of that are lovely. So what made this museum special?  The mix. Usually I get tired of room after room of paintings with a few statues mixed in so there's something in the middle of the rooms.  At the Rijksmuseum the rooms were organized by theme.  For example,  there was a Waterloo room.  In it were not only paintings related to Waterloo but artifacts and models. To top the whole place off,  they had an entire room dedicated to models of real boats and part from real ships. I don't know if you were aware of this,  but I love anything nautical (if you hadn't guessed from my rant earlier about water). I spent four glorious hours in this museum and could have spent more - it was that good.

Overall,  by the time I had to leave Amsterdam,  I was considering missing my flight and staying indefinitely.  Sadly,  I'm too responsible so I packed my bags and headed to the airport,  not completely ready for my next adventure.  But, as I always say, if you leave a city feeling like you haven't seen and experienced everything then you have an reason to come back!

3 comments:

  1. This makes me really want to go back to Amsterdam. I'm dying to get a chance to actually see that art museum!

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  2. Now we know of another area to go on our next trip to Europe. Water, water everywhere and Amy had to leave! Dad

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  3. Amen to Lindsay's comment! It is on my Bucket List. . . so maybe you'll get to go again in the near future, but you may have to take Lindsay and me with you!! ~Mom

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